Eating Our Way Across America

We made it! Walt and I arrived safely in Atlanta late Thursday evening and were completely moved into "The Georgian" by Friday night. It's been a loooong journey, but a fun one. And Walt and I are still on speaking terms after 2,370 miles (but hey, who's counting). If we can do that, we can do anything.  While I finish getting my new kitchen in order, I figure I'll leave you with a little recap of our culinary journey across America. Walt's job was driver, and my job was navigator (which I failed at on a number of occasions) as well as food locator (this it turns out, I am very, very good at).

DAY ONE - PHOENIX, ARIZONA

Stacey's Smokehouse Barbecue - This hole-in-the-wall joint popped up in a Google search and had the seal of approval from Bon Appetit magazine. Good enough for me. We navigated the U-Haul off the beaten path, and I'm so glad we did. Stacy himself served us up heaping pulled pork sandwiches, dribbled in a tangy red sauce just how I like it. The baked beans and macaroni & cheese were good, but it was the fried okra that grabbed -- and kept -- our attention. The sweet tea (yep, you heard me right. Sweet tea in Arizona!) was made just right, and the banana pudding was incredible. Stacy, you've got my southern stamp of approval!

Stacy's Smokehouse Barbecue 1650 East Indian School Road Phoenix, AZ 85016 www.stacyssmokehousebbq.com

DAY TWO - EL PASO, TEXAS

Pepe's Tamales - Pepe's was a Yelp 5-star, and I couldn't think of anything better than authentic tamales to welcome us into Texas. Tucked into a worn-down strip mall off the I-10, it's definitely a locals-only kind of place. With only three tamale options, Walt and I ordered 4 of each. Hey, a dozen were only $11.99. At that price, we figured the leftovers would be a perfect afternoon snack. It's take-out only, so we had a make-shift picnic in the parking lot (very romantic!). The Red Chili Pork tamales were nice, but the Green Chili Chicken tamales were mind blowing. Oh my goodness. I need some right now. 

Pepe's Tamales 1228 McRae Boulevard El Paso, TX 79925 www.pepestamales.net

DAY THREE - HOUSTON, TEXAS

Goode Company Barbecue 2 - We couldn't leave Texas without barbecue, could we? Goode Company Barbecue is a Texas institution, and conveniently located off the Interstate. Although the online reviews were mixed, we decided to go for it. We were a bit weary of the "cafeteria-style" service, and Walt and I both prefer pork over brisket, but I'm always a willing eater. And you know what? Not too shabby. I don't think brisket will ever rock my world, but washed down with a Saint Arnold Amber Ale (brewed in Houston), I could see how Texan's could get used to it. The Pecan Pie, however, is a completely different story. Hands down the best I've ever had. And guess what? You can order it online!

Goode Company Barbecue 2 8911 Katy Freeway Houston, TX 77024 www.goodecompany.com

DAY FOUR - NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA

Mother's Restaurant - This restaurant came highly recommended to me by a few trust-worthy "foodies," but you know, it just didn't do it for me. I got a Shrimp Po' Boy (one of my all time fave N' Awlins dishes), and it was just plain weak. I ended up picking out the shrimp, 'cause it's pretty hard to mess up fried shrimp. To give credit where credit is due, the Crawfish Etouffee was stellar, but at over $40 for two people, I'd pass on Mother's. There's just too many other worthy places in this tasty city. 

Mother's Restaurant 401 Poydras New Orleans, LA 70130 www.mothersrestaurant.net

DAY FIVE - NEW ORLEANS CONTINUED

Cafe Du Monde - Do I even need to elaborate? Fluffy, delicate beignets and perfect cafe au lait. Sigh. And we walked away with two coffee mugs and a crushed penny. Score!

Cafe Du Monde 1039 Decatur Street New Orleans, LA 70116 www.cafedumonde.com

R & O's - We saved the best for last! It turns out our new landlord is from New Orleans (and apparently a mighty fine cajun cook). This was his recommendation, and man did he not steer us wrong. It's a divey little place off the beaten track, and lord they love the Saints. The Spicy Tamales were great, but it was the Roast Beef Po Boy that was worth writing home about. I have no words in my vocabulary to describe its' amazingness (see, that's not even a word). And to guild the lily, I secretly ordered the homemade bread pudding while Walt was in the restroom. Hee hee.

R & O's 216 Hammond Highway Metairie, LA 70005

AND ON THE SIXTH DAY...

So you might be thinking to yourself, "Man, these people eat too much." Well, we've been thinking the same thing. We need a break. Or maybe just a little lot of exercise. Well, my first order of attack is to load my new fridge with lots of fruits and vegetables. I have started researching Atlanta CSA's, and hope to find some good farmers' markets soon. If you're in the Chamblee/Dekalb area, let me know if you have any suggestions. 

Stay tuned for more country cooking soon!!

New Beginnings

I'm headed to Georgia. In less than a week. For good. Whoa, buddy. Hence the lack of posting recently. Between packing (done!), house-hunting (done!), finding a job replacement (done!), and finishing up culinary school (done! done! done!), my life has been a little topsy turvey to say the least.

We always knew we would make the move back south eventually. Well, at least I always did. And then Walt came along and "I" turned into "we".  In the end, it just makes sense. Both of our families are there. SEC football is there. Bourbon is there.  Come to think of it, most of the things we love most are there. It doesn't hurt that Walt is now gainfully employed.  Me? Not so much.

I will, however, dearly miss Southern California. I have become quite accustomed to perpetual sunshine, a Pacific Coast Highway commute, and a year-round farmers' market to write books about. I even have a Meyer lemon tree in my backyard.  I mean, come on.  As sad as I am to lose that tree, I'm leaving a lot more than lemons behind, like unforgettable friends, an irreplaceable boss, and a cute little Venice beach bungalow. Okay, I take back that last one. A new house was in order.

Don't worry about me too much, though. I think our future is looking quite bright. I'll be exploring the great food city of Atlanta and taking you with me. There will be more southern recipes and stories, this time from the front line. With an infinite supply of resources to tap, from farms to markets, to Mrs. Tina's recipe collection, I think good things are in store for Dixie Caviar. 

So as Walt and I ride off into the sunset sunrise, I leave you with some heavenly braised short ribs, served atop a pile of creamy grits in honor of my new home. I can't even begin to explain how amazing this humble dish is. It's even better the next day, which makes it perfect for entertaining.  Just reheat on medium-low heat in the same dutch oven you cooked it in. Serve with a pile of grits, polenta, or mashed potatoes and you've got yourself a party.

BRAISED SHORT RIBS
Source: Adapted from New School of Cooking
Yields: 4 - 6 servings

Canola oil or clarified butter
4 pounds bone-in short ribs
2 medium onions, cut into thin strips
1 - 2 carrots, peeled and diced (depending on size of carrot)
1 -2 ribs celery, diced (depending on size of celery)
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
1 cup red wine
1 cup pureed tomatoes
2 - 3 cups stock (chicken or veal)
1 cup demiglace (optional)
6-8 sprigs thyme
Kosher salt and pepper

Pat meat dry and season well with salt and pepper.

In a large dutch oven, heat oil or butter over high heat. In small batches, brown short ribs on all sides. Remove meat from the pot and set aside. Reduce heat to medium and slowly caramelize the onion in the same pans, adding more oil if necessary. Add carrots and celery and saute, approximately 5 minutes. Add vinegar and reduce by half, turning up the heat if necessary (you want some good bubbling action here). Add tomatoes and wine and reduce by half.

Add stock, demiglace, short ribs, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce to low heat. Cover and simmer, about 3 hours or until falling off the bone. Remove short ribs. Increase heat and reduce sauce to desired consistency. Season to taste.

Kitchen tip: If you don't just happen to have demiglace on hand, or can't find it in your local market, try my tip for "easy" demiglace. Purchase a container or two of low sodium beef or veal stock (I used Perfect Additions brand from Whole Foods, found in the freezer department). Heat the broth in a sauce pot over medium-high heat. Allow to reduce (bubbling and gurgling away) until it reaches a thick syrup-like consistency. The more you reduce it, the more condensed the flavor. The yield isn't very much, but even a small amount really takes the flavor of the short ribs (or anything for that matter) to another level.

English Toffee heads South

Just a few days before Christmas, my boss and I went on a whirlwind cookbook-signing tour of Los Angeles. The day ended with a trip to the Original Farmers' Market at 3rd and Fairfax. We had an incredible lunch at Jimmy Shaw's Loteria (the enchiladas verdes were revolutionary), but it wasn't the mole that changed my life. And I'm not even being dramatic here.  

My boss asked if I'd ever had the famous English toffee from Little John's Candies. "Well I'm more of a fudge girl myself," I responded. "But I'll give it a try." I could tell by the look on her face that I'd been missing out on something good. We pushed our way through the herd, err, line, and I ordered one each of toffee, plain fudge, rocky road fudge, and divinity. Yes, I have a problem. Don't judge me. But it wasn't the fudge that had me reeling. The English toffee was oh-my-god amazing! So I turned right back around and bought myself a pound. For a gift, I swear.

After that pound was long gone, I still couldn't get it off my mind (or my thighs). Over the next few weeks, everywhere I went, I had to have toffee. Miette Bakery at the San Francisco Ferry Plaza and a little chocolate shop on Catalina Island both held there own, but nobody's compared to Little John's. 

So what's a candy-obsessed food blogger to do? Well make it herself, of course. After a few mediocre attempts -- which were promptly devoured, I might add -- I think I nailed it, folks. This toffee is fantastic!

But in true "Dixie Caviar" style, I had to add my Southern stamp with none other than salted peanuts. What can I say? I may never miss the almonds, or Little John's again.

SOUTHERN-STYLE ENGLISH TOFFEE
Source: Nealey Dozier
Yields: 1 to 1-1/2 pounds

1 cup sugar
3/4 cup heavy cream
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
4 ounces good quality milk chocolate, finely chopped
1/2 (heaping) cup salted peanuts, finely chopped

Line a 9 x 13 pan with aluminum foil. Lightly coat with cooking spray.

Heat sugar, cream, butter, and cream of tartar over low heat until sugar is completely dissolved. Wash down the sides of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in warm water. Bring to a boil and boil for 3 minutes, without stirring. Insert candy thermometer into pan. Stirring constantly, especially around the sides and bottom of the pan, heat until the mixture reaches 300 degrees (but don't go past!). The syrup will be molasses-colored and thick. Immediately remove from heat and stir in vanilla.

Pour the candy into prepared pan and allow to cool for 3 minutes. Sprinkle the chocolate over the hot toffee. Allow to melt for 1 to 2 minutes, then gently spread it evenly over the candy with an offset spatula. Pour peanuts evenly over the entire surface and gently press to help them adhere.

Refrigerate until chocolate is set, approximately one hour. Break toffee into pieces.

Sweet Potato and Cheddar Savory Bread Pudding

Ummm, all I've got to say is, how delicious does this look? Well trust me, it tastes even more delicious.

I originally tried this recipe with Butternut squash and kale, as made by the lovely Molly Wizenberg of Orangette. It was so amazing that I wanted to share it with all my dear readers (all 5 of you!), but I decided to update it with a little Southern twist. Southern being sweet potatoes and collard greens, of course. Swoon. I think grandma would be proud!

(Too bad nobody was home when I pulled it out of the oven. Oh well, more for me. At least I went for a long hike afterwards. And then went back for seconds!)

SWEET POTATO AND CHEDDAR BREAD PUDDING
Adapted from Bon Appetit, November 2009
YIELDS: 6 - 8 servings

2 pounds sweet potatoes or yams, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
7 large eggs
2 1/2 cups half-and-half or milk, or mix of both
6 tablespoons dry white wine
2 teaspoons dijon mustard
1 day old baguette, torn into chunks
1 cup shallots, chopped (3 - 4 large)
2 bunches greens (kale, swiss chard, collards, etc), ribs removed and roughly chopped
8 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, grated
Kosher salt and pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Toss sweet potatoes with 2 tablespoons olive oil, salt, and pepper on rimmed baking sheet. Roast for 25 minutes, or until tender, stirring occasionally. Remove sweet potatoes and reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl whisk half-and-half, eggs, white wine, and mustard. Season liberally with salt and pepper. Add bread cubes to egg mixture and gently toss. Allow to soak for 30 minutes.

Heat remaining olive oil in large dutch oven. Add shallots and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Add greens and cover; cook approximately 2 minutes. Remove cover, season with salt and pepper, and cook for an additional 10 minutes (until greens are wilted but still have a little bite).

Grease a 9 x 13 casserole dish. Spread with half of the bread mixture. Add half of the greens, then half of the sweet potatoes. Sprinkle with one-half of cheese. Repeat with remaining bread, greens, sweet potatoes, and cheese. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 20 minutes. Remove foil and continue cooking for additional 20 minutes.

New Year, New Resolve

Two years ago, my whole world revolved around the supermarket. Vegetables knew no season, I didn't think twice about cooking food from a can, and ground beef and rotisserie chicken were a way of life. But very slowly, new doors have opened and a stream of light has come pouring in.

I experienced my first trip to a farmers' market, and what a revelation it was. Sugary sweet strawberries tasted like nothing I'd ever encountered. Fifteen different varieties of citrus, each with its own unique flavor and color, eagerly called out my name. And the meat. Let me just tell you, a fresh farmers' market chicken roasted with just a pat of butter and a sprinkle of salt will change your life.

I've learned what's in season when: why asparagus should be revered in the first months of spring, and left to its' own devices during all other months. How delicious a tomato can truly be when you've forgone watery grocery store tomatoes and waited patiently through the winter months to taste a just-plucked heirloom. Why paying a little more to a farmer for his one-of-kind Blenheim apricots will always win out over  paying a little less to a corporate giant for crap.

All this being said, I am just at the beginning of this culinary journey. Convenience often wins out after a long day at work, which means Ralph's is often the quickest way to dinner. And that can of cream of mushroom in my famous Mexican lasagna is, quite frankly, irreplaceable. And sometimes, just sometimes, I can't resist a southern-style chicken sandwich and french fries from McDonalds. And that's okay.

Every day, every meal is about choices: choices that are not always black or white, right or wrong. But here's the thing -- it should be about making a better choice, when possible. So now I give you my culinary resolutions of 2010. Here's hoping to a delicious year!

• Love my farmers. I'm going to make the extra effort on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday mornings to hit up the local markets in my area; get to know the farmers personally; and put my money where my mouth is.
• Eat less meat. But when I do, it will be high-quality, sustainable, free-range meats from reliable vendors. And while this may cost a little more up front, I'll be saving in the end.
• No more processed foods, sodas, and fast-food. Bye bye high-fructose corn syrup, hello healthy heart!
• Grow something green. I don't exactly have a green thumb, so I'm going to start small. Perhaps some herbs in the windowsill. (Walt, I'll need your help on this...)
• Crazy kitchen projects. I look forward to my first endeavors in bread baking, cheese-making, and lots more canning and preserving.
• And lastly, making Dixie Caviar the best it can be. I can't wait to share more Southern recipes from my kitchen, but I want to share more of your recipes, too. Send over your family favorites and the stories behind them. Let's help DC grow!